Hello Pennsy modelers. You may remember me as a past NYC/PRR/PC/CR modeler which I was for nearly 30 years. More recently I gave up most of my modeling of these railroads in favor of southeastern railroads of the 1950s and 1960s. I have enjoyed modeling the southeast very much but I still keep coming back to the Pennsy and the Central.
As Bowser has produced one new model of PRR rolling stock after another I keep biting the bullet and add more Pennsy stock to my already bulging collection of rolling stock. I will admit right up front that I am not the "expert" on freight cars that many of you here on the "PRR-Talk" list are. My goal is to build realistic, if not completely accurate models of various prototypes. In this case it is the PRR GS gondola.
Click on image for a hi-res (600 dpi, 278K) version that will open in a new window.
Having discussed this model with people on this and the "freight cars" lists, it is apparent that once again, we have here another model that has errors. For instance, the Bowser GS gon appears to match the 1942-44 rebuilt GS class gondolas. However, the brake wheel is on the right side of the B-end instead of relocating it to the left. This was apparently done to comply with ARA requirements and was one of the primary reasons for rebuilding the cars. Fixing this "problem" calls for removing the molded on brake parts on the car end and reversing the brake rigging beneath the carbody. Of course, you could back fit the model to represent the GS gondola in its original configuration.
The Bowser GS gondola is available in the earlier "Circle Keystone" and "Shadow Keystone" schemes. Realizing that Pennsy freight car color is a never-ending debate among P-Company enthusiasts, I dare say that the color of each model appears appropriate for the two schemes. Unlike lettering on my earlier Bowser models, lettering is sharp and well done.
Bowser freight car trucks are among the most realistic that I have seen in more than 40 years of modeling in HO scale. The definition of the sideframes and the coil springs in particular are excellent. Good weathering will bring out the fine detail there. I fit my GS gondola with Kadee wheel sets. I replaced the included horn-hook couplers with InterMountain knuckle couplers.
The gondola itself is very well done with finely scaled rivets/bolts and one of the finest top sills fount on any HO scale car. On the down side are the molded on grabs and fragile stirrup steps -- all of which were replaced on my model pictured here. One of the most remarkable improvements in HO-scale freight cars has been the brake wheel. Bowser included an absolutely phenomenal brake wheel. No thick klunker here. Bet somebody e-mails us pointing out that it may be nicely done, but is wrong for the PRR GS gon! Hope not and it is a beaut!
I did neither of the above "brake fixes" simply because the model was complete before I learned of the problems from Richard Orr. My next Bowser GS gondola will have the brake equipment reversed to reflect the early 1940s rebuild changes. In the meanwhile, I have a model that very few model railroaders would ever know of the discrepancy with the prototype. Separate grabs, coupler cut levers, formed metal stirrup steps, trainline air hoses and some good weathering make for a realistic model -- just exactly what I was trying to achieve when this short project was started. Next time I plan much more detailed brake rigging on the model's bottom side.
The first step in preparation of my Bowser GP gondola car was to carve off the molded on grab irons. At the right end of each car side, holes were drilled for replacement Tichy #3015 formed-wire drop-type grabs. The single grab at the left end of each car side a Tichy #3021 straight grab was fitted. The end grabs are also Tichy straight grabs. I like using Tichy grabs on freight car red models, especially Pennsy cars as the copper color of the metal of these grabs is not so noticeable when paint is nicked.
A-Line formed metal stirrup steps #29000 replace the easily broken molded on plastic stirrups. After trimming off the plastic stirrups, holes are drilled up into the edge of the car sides and the replacement stirrups are dabbed in CA cement, them pressed into these mount holes.
I add Detail Associates #6215 freight car cut levers to each model freight car. A hole is drilled up into the left side bottom edge of the car ends. The included DA metal eye-bole is dabbed in CA cement and pressed into each mounting hole. After tweaking on the shape of the cut lever to make it fit the model, with the model upside down, it is fit through the eyebolt and a dab of CA cement is placed at the juncture of the eye-bole and cut lever. Once the CA has hardened, additional CA cement is added for greater strength.
Knuckle-type couplers are installed and Kadee metal sets are fit to the trucks which are then installed to the bolsters.
Since I cut off the unrealistic appearing coupler trip pin that most modelers set their minds to believing they represent air hoses, one last detail that I add is a pair of Detail Associated freight car air hoses. In order to secure each into its proper location, I use Athearn diesel handrail stanchions cut short and inserted into a hole drilled into the bottom edge of the cab end just to the right or each coupler. Trim the air hose from the sprue and after placing its pipe extension into the inverted stanchion, squeeze the stanchion knuckle to secure the air hose in place.
The last detail to consider is to me, the most important. That is, weathering. This is a tough obstacle for most model railroaders to overcome as I have seem a lot of unweathered models and plenty of poorly weathered models. Truly convincing weathering applications are few and far between.
I have been asked many times to describe my methods of weathering. This is easier to ask than it is to explain. I am not going to attempt to do so here either. Let suffice to say that I use acrylic paints from Model Flex and Polly scale applied with a paint brush in varying concentrations of watered washes. I am preparing a weathering article for Model Railroader's Paint Shop feature that will be published later this year.
In closing, I admit to recognizing that the Bowser model is not perfect. What is? On the other hand, with a little craftsman-like TLC, it can be made into a very realistic model with but one evening’s work.
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Last modified: November 23 2007.
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